100 things: Dinosaurs in Crystal Palace Park

I loved this suggestion immediately (thanks, Amber!) when it was made, so I don't know why it's taken me so long to get round to it. Finding out about them just before I went made it even better. They're Grade I listed, the first dinosaur sculptures in the world, and pre-dated On the Origin of Species by six years. It's easy to find them quaint and somewhat amusing now (especially the one which has its head in a bush because no one knew what its face looked like) but they're really not only fun to go and look at but also an incredible piece of history. This and loads more info all on Wikipedia...

 The park also includes this model of geographical strata including a seam of coal. And here are some of the dinosaurs...

 I think my favourite bit were these, the dinosaurs they thought had shells somewhat like turtles - that's been proved incorrect. I liked the signage which gives information about what was thought at the time as well as illustrations of what is now thought to be the case - which of course, may also be already outdated.

As we walked around it was pointed out to me that this sudden desire to see these dinosaurs just at this moment might be no coincidence, and really just be withdrawal symptoms from being away from the Natural History Museum...  No. I'm sure not.

Before leaving we also did the maze - London's largest. I'm sure I've heard from somewhere that you should always turn left in a classical maze to find the centre. We tried it, and it worked. Sort of. Plenty of dead ends later. We decided this still counted, as we followed the dead ends and turned left again. Thinking about it, that might work for any maze, as you'd have to eventually follow all the kinks and turns around... I'm sure someone on the internet knows.

100 things: Greenwich Foot Tunnel

There is something quite peculiar about walking underneath a river - much more so than driving or travelling on the tube. I'm not totally sure I knew much about the Thames foot tunnels - I think there are only two in use, at Greenwich and Woolwich - before I looked up a cycling route to Canary Wharf from my flat in SE London the other day, and saw that Google showed it going straight across the river from the Cutty Sark to the Isle of Dogs where I was fairly sure there wasn't a bridge. I've been under it a couple of times since (hence the night and day time photos). Lots of commuting cyclists use it, a large percentage admirably kitted out in reflective jackets, proper cycling clothes, multiple flashing lights, bullet proof helmets etc (only a slight exaggeration) absolutely putting me to shame. I won't go into details of what I count as bike equipment at the moment, I would only get shouted at. The tunnel and lifts are open 24 hours a day and especially at peak hours it feels pretty busy and perfectly safe, though I'm not sure I'd feel totally comfortable walking through on my own at quiet times.

Also definitely worth a visit if you live anywhere near there on either side of the bank is the Old Fire Station near Island Gardens DLR station. I, like a complete snob, assumed there wouldn't be much in the way of decent eateries in that area and was proved completely wrong when we discovered this wonderful Mediterranean bistro with decorations made of reclaimed picture frames and a wine bottles ceiling light. We had a selection of tapas, which came beautifully presented, reasonable portions for the small cost, and everything tasted delicious and was perfectly cooked. Our waitress was new but we were introduced to her by the manager, who checked we didn't mind being her test case, and kept an eye on us throughout the evening. All the staff were perfectly charming - highly recommended and not too expensive.

100 things: Pump House Gallery

Meanwhile, I've still not managed to make any special trips out to see anything else in London, but I did go for a meeting at the very special Pump House Gallery the other day in Battersea Park. I forgot to take a photo of it; by the time I remembered I was half way out of the park and it was too cold to go back. I got this shot of the lake at dusk instead!

The gallery is in a tiny building overlooking the lake, some way into the park. There is some interesting history about it on their website; it used to house a pump used to circulate water around the lake and the artificial waterfalls. It now has four floors inside and is still small but perfectly formed, comprising a permanent gallery space but housing changing exhibitions. What I liked was that although the exhibition wasn't enormous the current one is very good and not at all obvious. It's titled Art, Performance & Activism in Contemporary Japan and included work from various artists and in various formats. My favourite I think was a photo about age, with a younger woman's face being cradled by the hands of older women. Definitely worth a visit.

100 things: Reformers' Tree monument

Just happened across this yesterday when randomly walking across Hyde Park (because the Circle Line was down and District Line closed between High Street Kensington and Edgware Road leaving no sensible way of getting from Chiswick to Lancaster Gate on the tube, grumble grumble). It's to commemorate a tree which was burned down in the Reform Riots of 1866, the stump of which then became a noticeboard for political demonstrations (all from the Press Factsheet on the Royal Parks website). Apparently a new tree was planted in 1977 but I couldn't tell if that had since gone or if this monument was not actually on the site of the tree.

My historical knowledge being appalling I didn't know about the Reform Riots but here's some info from the National Archive website:

Following the 1832 Reform Act, periodic demands for the extension of the right to vote continued. Further attempts at parliamentary reform took place in the 1860s. By 1865, both Liberal and Conservative leaders, William Gladstone and Benjamin Disraeli, were convinced of the case to extend voting rights. In 1866 reform demonstrations turned to riots in Hyde Park and Trafalgar Square. The Reform Acts of 1867 and 1884 extend parliamentary voting rights: firstly in 1867 to the urban adult male householders and male lodgers paying £10 for unfurnished rooms, and secondly in 1884 to men living in the countryside (under the same conditions).

100 things: St James's Park to the National Portrait Gallery

I've not got around to writing this post for a while and I think it's because, you know, the National Portrait Gallery is fab and all that but it didn't quite have the thrill of discovery of some of the other places I've been so far. This was perhaps particularly because of the unfortunate arrival, while I was going round the First Actresses exhibition, of a class of either sixth formers or  new undergraduates (young, reasonably trendy, monosyllabic) and their very loud, confident, slightly patronising teacher, whose voice echoed around the space and made it really difficult to focus on what I was looking at. In Italy tour guides were banned from a lot of places, a policy I liked.

However, I'm starting near the end. I began by getting off the tube at St James's Park. One of the things that I think a lot of non-Londoners don't realise is how walkable the city centre actually is. The tube map, though beautiful, is quite deceptive. St James's Park tube station in a way isn't the best place to start, despite its name, because it brings you to the middle of the south of the park rather than to one end, but it was a bit of a last minute thought, when I realised that I could do a good route through the park, up Whitehall and across Trafalgar Square to the gallery. The park was lovely, the leaves were all autumnal, the pelicans were unexpected but there were a few too many tourists about.

Whitehall was a bit disappointing too. I don't need all the fingers on one hand to remember the number of times I've knowingly walked up Whitehall, which is perhaps a bit rubbish for a so-called-Londoner, but I'm quite glad I haven't bothered more often. You think it's going to be so much more impressive than it is. I was struck by the number of red telephone boxes around the HM Revenue and Customs building. Do people particularly need to make phone calls when coming out of there or is it just to cater to the tourist photo opportunities? There were lots of those happening. My favourite things were these slightly random but impressive wrought iron gates and the memorial to the women of World War Two which I'm not sure I knew about before: shame it's in the middle of a busy road like the Cenotaph, but rather beautifully evocative with all the empty uniforms hung up on pegs: not only symbolising the work done by women during the war but also the way in which many of them had to give up those jobs again afterwards, probably mostly reluctantly.

Making it to Trafalgar Square I managed to get a rare photo of one of the lions without a person on it or in front of it. Thinking about it I should have checked out the Fourth Plinth - I think it's the Ship in the Bottle at the moment, and I do like the contemporary art concept - but instead I paused for some lunch and a quick squiz at St Martin's. There's a church which is successfully engaging with what's going on around it, frequently hosting demonstrations on its steps and running a programme of support for the homeless, without sacrificing some revenue opportunities like the Cafe in the Crypt.

Finally I got to the National Portrait Gallery. I do like it very much: I'm a fan of portraits generally and it definitely bears repeat visits as there is so much there, and the exhibitions change regularly, particularly downstairs with the modern sections. I've been quite recently (to see the BP Portrait Award as also recommended by Lucy, which was fab and I'd have willingly gone to again but has now finished) but it didn't matter at all. Looking at the website there is a lot that looks interesting which I didn't see. Though of course the main part of the gallery is free and I'm not normally a big one for paying for exhibitions if I don't have to, I did fork out £2 for the Taylor Wessing Photographic Portrait Prize, which was really interesting even if I do slightly agree with the controversy over the winner, and also for the First Actresses exhibition as already mentioned, more expensive at £12. I wouldn't necessarily recommend this to everyone unless you're particularly interested in the subject, even on days when annoying teachers aren't around, but I did my undergraduate dissertation on the actresses so felt it was worth a look, and there are some lovely portraits. I particularly liked the couple by Reynolds and one of Lavinia Fenton. I was also quite surprised by how many of them went on to become writers and playwrights: I've read about Mary Robinson but didn't realise there were quite a few others such as Elizabeth Inchbald and Sarah Siddons. You hear more often either about their scandalous reputations or how they left the stage when they got married: perhaps typical of how women have been portrayed in history.

I did also go up to the top floor restaurant as recommended, and the view did indeed look quite amazing over the rooftops towards Trafalgar Square on a rather misty day, but it seemed a bit too posh to be worth it for a solo cup of tea. The menu looked good: perhaps somewhere to go for a treat before the theatre? Not really for someone trying to rediscover London on a budget. Otherwise, not too bad an afternoon on balance: thanks Leah, Rose, and Lucy.

100 things: Southbank Centre

I met a friend of mine on the South Bank on Saturday and we immediately regretted it. She had her baby with her in a pram and the river bank was packed with people out to see the Christmas markets, or pose with the "characters" (why on earth? Vikings, Mickey Mouse..) and it was hard work manoeuvring through them. We did pause to enjoy a cup of Gluhwein though the whole thing does make me wonder why we have to pretend to be Germany to have Christmas markets. What happened to mulled wine and why the hideous fake chalet huts? Sigh, bah humbug, etc.

Anyway for some respite we went into the Southbank Centre, that megalithic arts centre that consists of the Hayward Gallery, the Royal Festival Hall and the Queen Elizabeth Hall. We found our way to the badly signposted and incredibly badly positioned lift on the river side of the building, in a corner accessed by a narrow corridor around the side of a restaurant with a column and a cashpoint queue blocking the way. I've always found the Southbank Centre rather confusing to get into.  Still, it was worth it once we were there.

The first fantastic thing about the Centre is that you can pretty reliably guarantee there will be something going on to hear or look at. This weekend there was free live music happening in the Clore Ballroom as part of the London Jazz Festival. It's a crazy place, really, with an amazing potential therefore for events. It's open to the foyer on Level 2, albeit down some stairs, so that you can have a seated audience who feel as though they're in a separate space, but also anyone wandering past can see what's going on.

There are numerous exhibitions taking place, too, including one of artwork by prisoners. We had a look at the World Press Photo exhibition, much of which was rather horrific but, probably, necessary in some sense, photographs of war and suffering. My favourite by contrast was a wonderful shot by Andrew McConnell of a woman practising the cello, divided from a rundown street in the Congo by only a sheet of green corrugated plastic. Apparently she is a member of Central Africa’s only symphony orchestra, most of whom are self taught. It is a wonderful image.

The downsides were that they'd not noticed it was a mild day and the heating was on full blast - we had a rather hot baby getting increasingly unhappy so couldn't stay as long as we wanted to - and it's confusingly laid out, but all in all, I like the Southbank Centre. It's such a basic thing about being an accessible, welcoming arts space: that when people come in there will be something to do and a reason to be there, and on Saturday people had come in their droves. Not all of it is in the Centre's hands, either. There have been various attempts to close down the skate park underneath and snotty criticisms of it by art critics but it is, fabulously in contrast to the smart glass fronted brand heavy shops and cafes next door, still going strong. I don't think good art is created in some rarefied place where people don't dare to enter. That kind of art doesn't engage with reality, with humanity, in a way which is meaningful to me. Of course there is more to it than allowing the bustle of Londoners and tourists from tacky Christmas markets spread into your foyers, but it's all part of it.

100 things: Vauxhall Bridge to South Bank

I've walked along South Bank a hundred times and did again yesterday evening, but it's going to have to wait for another time to write it up for 100 things because I was meeting a friend and sometimes (just sometimes!) life has to come first.

The Vauxhall Bridge part of this walk was therefore done in rather a rush, because I was late, so it turned into more of a route march than a meander. However, it's a part I don't remember walking down before and it was my favourite time of the evening in London, so I enjoyed it nonetheless. I might have to do this again sometime too. I was slightly nervous of taking the photo of the famous MI6 (or SIS) building and lo and behold, the moment I had, a man in a suspiciously bulky vest and all in black appeared hurrying towards me. I sauntered on, trying to look innocuous.

 It's terrible for taking photos, but I love a London twilight. It's often not spectacular; quite the contrary. Everything goes rather grey and slightly misty, until there is barely any colour left at all. Yet at the same time, the lights are coming on, and London is lit up in a golden glow. Gold and grey - beautiful. Vauxhall Bridge was a good place to start for this because you get the view up the river to the Houses of Parliament and the London Eye beyond. As I hurried along, past St Thomas's, I heard Big Ben toll the half hour, as a traffic cone floated past. The gardens of the hospital, facing onto the river, were where I watched the fireworks from on Millennium Eve. We'd nearly got suffocated in the crowds but managed to find a slightly more peaceful spot under a tree and drank champagne before walking home through miles upon miles of traffic free but people crowded streets - it felt apocalyptic.

100 things: the Hungerford Bridge at night

There is a footbridge that goes alongside the Hungerford Bridge between Embankment and Waterloo - I walked back across it last night from a lovely dinner at Wahaca for my friend's birthday (it was definitely also something to love but at the time, other than garnering a couple of suggestions for this blog, I was more interested in enjoying the company and the food than taking photos!)

Anyway, we'd been talking about how wonderful walking across any bridge in London is and going to get my train from Waterloo I remembered why. This part of the river at night is just stunning, coming from busy Embankment to the cool dark river - St Paul's a shadow in the distance; the neon lights of the National; the Oxo Tower (also on my list), the Royal Festival Hall's open faced front full of welcoming busy bars and restaurants - the photos do it no justice. I've got lots of things people have suggested I do along here and I'm looking forward to it: it's always been one of the parts of London I love the most.

100 things: Strand on the Green

I grew up near Strand on the Green, and am living back there now. From going to see the ducks and the window with the Wild Things toys as a small child, to Christmas Day walks, to inadvertently biting a piece out of a pint glass when trying to impress my friends as a teenager, to these days using it as a slightly more sophisticated venue for a drink, I've probably been along there hundreds if not thousands of times and it's still one of my favourite parts of the river.

The first photo is the view from Kew Bridge - as someone said to me last night, crossing any bridge over the Thames in London is always good for appreciating London.  Then Cafe Rouge, not quite on the river (though it's called Thames Road here), but a favourite venue for meeting up for citron pressé, and Rose Cottage where Nancy Mitford apparently lived when writing The Pursuit of Love.

< One of our favourite things to do as children was to walk along the wall. It extends along quite a long way from Kew Bridge to where Strand on the Green proper begins. We were never allowed to walk on the bit shown in the photo when we were smaller and so I still think of it as more dangerous - right next to the river, obstacles in the shape of those bollards - but parts of the rest of it are still encroached on by bushes and low hanging branches enough to give us a thrill. The tide was very high when I took these pictures - on spring tides the water can come right up to the houses and they all have flood defences. Also pictured is the first of Strand on the Green's three pubs, all of which have experienced various guises since I was little, and have become increasingly gastro-pub-ised. The Bell and Crown is good for the additional seating along the river wall on a nice day.

The Bell and Crown is where the towpath proper begins. There are lots of things I remember being fascinated with when we were little: the big overhanging willow trees, the swans, the toys in the window (though I think someone is keeping up the tradition in a different window, now, and the toys look older and dustier) and the steps and barriers between the path and the houses to keep the river water out.

Then there are always unexpected sights - like this enormous dog which was sitting out on the wall inspecting people as they walked by. This part of the river used to have lots of boat building activity and old mooring posts still stand in the river - I think these must be where the barge was moored after which the City Barge, the nearby pub and the middle of the three, is named. Another old favourite is Post Office Alley, very difficult to get a good photo of, and from the river end almost impossible to spot. A tiny dark archway in a house turns into an alleyway which goes up past Post Office House, and a little brick dwelling which we used to think must be the smallest house in the world, back up to Thames Road which runs parallel to the river. The City Barge is just next door.

Finally the path goes under the railway bridge (carrying the Overground and the tube between Gunnerbury and Kew Gardens) where the Strand on the Green sailing club is based, and past the Bulls Head, final pub and the one from which, legend has it, a tunnel extended to Oliver's Island which Cromwell used to escape. It seems unlikely given it's some way upstream, but it's a nice story. Being alone I avoided the temptation of a cold beer and walked back along Thames Road, picking up a slightly deformed Solero on the way, which I enjoyed back at the other end of Strand on the Green!

Thanks to Jennie for the suggestion. For anyone who doesn't know this part of London well, it's worth a visit - you can walk the towpath on either side of the river here and in the other direction to Isleworth and Twickenham too, past Richmond where the river stops being tidal and there is the first (or last?!) lock. Just diagonally across the river and on the other side of Kew Bridge from Strand on the Green are the Royal Botanic Gardens - otherwise known as Kew Gardens and also on my list.

Transport is good - Kew Bridge Station is on a branch line to Waterloo, and Gunnersbury or Kew Gardens, as already mentioned, are on the Overground and the District Line, and are probably 10-15 minutes walk away.